Install guide and Troubleshooting
TacticalPontoon triggers are to be installed and adjusted by competent and knowledgeable gunsmith/armorers.
Please do not take on this task if you do not meet these qualifications. Read these guidelines and familiarize yourself with the functions. All function and safety checks must be accomplished before putting your trigger system into service.
This is your responsibility to accomplish. TacticalPontoon will not be liable for incorrect installations or failure to follow function and safety checks.
Trigger system should not be run dry on install. (TacticalPontoon Badger Snot gun lube is applied to the connector to trigger bar interface from my work table to help people who are too excited to remember to lube their system and just want to get it installed.) Utilize your favorite gun lube on the working surfaces of the trigger. This is an important step!
Excommunicado and Leonidas Adjustment Guidelines
Leonidas - The Leonidas trigger block housing has a pre-travel adjustment screw in the forward section of the housing. This set screw allows you to adjust your desired amount of travel before the break. This is adjusted by removing the slide and inserting an allen key beside the ejector. Adjust it one quarter turn at a time and test for desired results by reinstalling the pin and cycling the slide to reactivate the trigger. Note that on some frames, the trigger blade safety will need to be filed down to function when desired pre-travel has been set. Safety note: The removal of pre-travel must be done with care to verify that the cruciform of the trigger bar does not fall off the drop safety ledge in the trigger block housing or the weapon will be unsafe. Fitting of the safety tab must also be done with care when desired pre-travel is reached. The gap between the safety tab and the frame should be just enough for a piece of paper to slide in freely.
Excommunicado and Heisenberg - Pre-travel reduction is not adjustable.
Over-travel: Excommunicado, Heisenberg, Hammer, Leonidas
Over-travel is controlled with a set screw in the trigger block housing. This is set from the factory in a neutral position for a drop in function. To adjust, remove plastic trigger block housing pin from the grip. This will allow the trigger block to pivot up and reveal the set screw in the rear of the housing on the left side. This is adjusted by turning the set screw clockwise 180 degrees at a time and testing trigger function. When the striker stops firing, turn the set screw 180 degrees counterclockwise. Your over-travel is now set.
Notes about trigger installs and possible issues
- If your trigger feels like it is dragging or heavier than factory you might have a connector issue. Did you lubricate your trigger on install? There is a prevailing myth that Glocks do not need lubrication, however the same was said about the M16A1 in Vietnam when it was first introduced and many people lost their lives to this. Anything mechanical needs lubrication. Hoppes, fireclean, froglube, motor oil, or Crisco, I am not here to promote one over the other, but lubrication is important and there is a possibility that the connector has been tore up and will need replaced.
- If your trigger feels like it is dragging or heavier than factory you might have a connector issue. Did you lubricate your trigger on install? Another troubleshooting step is to install your factory connector and see if the problem persists. If this solves the problem, a new connector may be required. Contact me for more information.
- Glock frames have a tolerance that they must meet, however these tolerances can make trigger fitment a little different for each frame.
- Polymer80 frames are another game all together, as these are drilled from a jig by the end user and the variance from one to another is even wider. The slide rails in these are not fixed and may sit higher or lower than a factory Glock, and it is a common occurrence for them to need additional fitment for the slide to track correctly.
- Glock slides are high quality, but also built to tolerances that can be tighter in some and looser in others as manufacturing tools wear.
- Aftermarket Slides come in many shapes and sizes, varying in quality and specifications. Some are true match grade pieces that ride tighter to the frame, while others sacrifice close fitment for a looser and possibly more reliable tracking in harsh environments.
- Strikers/firing pins are offered by the aftermarket of various materials and weights, however for this article, the important part is the length of the striker lug. Some aftermarket strikers have a shorter lug than factory.
- All of the above items can stack together and make a perfectly serviceable trigger assembly fail in a variety of ways.
- If a trigger is not breaking, or feeling very spongy, the trigger cruciform/sear has too much engagement with the striker lug and will need adjusted as shown in the video below.
- If a trigger is breaking and then upon reset, the gun goes binary, the cruciform/sear does not have enough engagement with the striker lug and will need adjusted as shown in the video below.
- TRIGGER TUNING IS AN EXTREMELY IMPORTANT PART OF GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR SYSTEM. PROPER STRIKER LUG ENGAGEMENT IS VITAL. TOO MUCH AND IT WILL DRAG BEFORE THE BREAK.
Safety checks of an installed trigger are an important part of your responsibility as a gun owner. This should be performed by a knowledgeable and competent gunsmith/armorer. We are not responsible for a customer's failure to follow these steps.
Trigger safety checks (Must be done upon installation, and periodically to check for worn safety parts): These safety checks are applicable to any Glock® trigger, stock or aftermarket, and should be performed regularly to ensure all safeties are functional. Make certain weapon is unloaded and no ammo is present for safety checks.Many aftermarket triggers can fail to be firing pin safe but do offer some level of compromised drop safety.
- Check trigger safety to ensure it is engaged when weapon has been racked. Without engaging the trigger safety bar firmly press the trigger to attempt firing. Ensure that the trigger safety does not slip off resulting in firing. If slipping occurs your weapon is no longer drop safe or firing pin safe, ensure it is repaired before use. Also, check this part for wear. It is an inexpensive piece and easily replaced.
- With the slide removed and trigger installed pull trigger forward so that it is resting on the trigger safety. Press the trigger bar on the cruciform at that trigger housing. Ensure that the trigger bar will not drop in a manner that could result in striker release. If the trigger bar drops into the housing, your weapon is not drop safe, ensure it is repaired before use.
- With the slide assembled but back plate removed and striker not engaged with the trigger bar, pull the trigger forward so that it is resting on the trigger safety and ensure that the firing pin is blocked and cannot move forward. This is best done using a Glock armorer’s tool and pressing the rear of the firing pin firmly with the armorer’s tool to ensure the firing pin cannot slip past.. If the firing pin can slip past the safety plunger, your firing pin safety is not functional. Ensure your trigger is repaired before use. Finally pull the trigger and ensure the firing pin moves freely past the safety plunger. If firing pin is felt to be impacting or slipping by the safety plunger, this can sometimes result in light primer strikes and should be repaired or over travel adjusted before duty or self-defense use. The easiest way to check for safety plunger interference is to perform the “rattle test” and listen for striker movement.
- Install a Glock armorer's back plate or look underneath the standard back plate and check for 2/3 to full firing pin to trigger bar engagement (sear engagement) when firearm is racked. As an additional reliability check, check sear engagement on reset while holding trigger depressed.